- Perfume, cologne, body spray
- Soaps, lotions, deodorant
- Hair and skin products
Chapter One
We breathe it, wear it, wash in it, and clean with it. Fragrance surrounds us—so why do we barely notice?
Olfactory Habituation and Adaptation
A scent can fade from awareness1—but the chemicals may still remain.
An Example:
—but others still can. You may even use more as your perception fades.
Chemical Sensitivity
In one study, people with chemical sensitivity showed less habituation, different brain-response patterns, and intensity ratings that did not decline over time.2
Genetic Differences
Inherited differences in olfactory receptors can make certain fragrance chemicals—including some synthetic musks—undetectable to some people.38 No scent does not mean no exposure.
Not Just a Scent
Ingredients may be natural or synthetic. Some create scent; others help it dissolve, disperse, last, or remain stable.
Under U.S. cosmetic labeling law, one word—“fragrance” or “parfum”—may represent dozens or hundreds3 of trade-secret ingredients.4
Most U.S. cosmetics require no FDA premarket approval.4
Worldwide, "fragrance" formulas are treated as proprietary; no jurisdiction requires their full disclosure.3
A Fragmented Regulatory Landscape
Different authorities govern ingredients, labeling, chemicals, and emissions. Regulation varies by jurisdiction.
Which materials may be used, restricted, or prohibited.
How broader chemical laws assess and manage chemicals—including some used in fragrance.
Which fragrance allergens must be named for consumer awareness.
How VOCs affect indoor air.
Industry standards, national laws, and state laws don't always align — the same ingredient may be allowed in one system and prohibited in another.
Industry self-regulation
IFRA is a global industry group—not a regulator. Its standards are voluntary — “IFRA compliant” does not mean government-approved.
IFRA does not replace local laws; brands remain responsible for safety and compliance.
European Union
The EU prohibits or restricts more cosmetic ingredients and requires broader fragrance-allergen disclosure than the U.S.6,12
United States
Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act of 2022 (MoCRA) requires the FDA to establish fragrance allergen-labeling, but specifics are pending.5
Thank You California
California is moving toward EU standards: it requires disclosure of certain hazardous fragrance ingredients and allergens and, in 2027, will ban lilial and several nitro musks and restrict musk ketone.18
Counts cover all cosmetic substances, not only fragrance. U.S.: 8 prohibited and 3 conditional entries. EU: 1,736 prohibited and 362 restricted entries; 64 restrictions are labeling-only.
After July 31, 2026, cosmetics newly placed on the EU market must label ~80 fragrance allergens, up from 24.
Counts are regulatory entries, not unique chemicals; one EU entry may cover a substance group. Data as of July, 2026.6
Beyond Europe and the United States
Canada, Japan, China, and ASEAN countries also regulate cosmetics through restrictions, labeling, and safety rules. Requirements differ by jurisdiction. 19
A Few Examples
Allergens, persistence, toxicity, indoor-air chemistry, and environmental harm; regulation varies by jurisdiction.
Industry’s “perfumer’s palette” = 3,312 scent + 379 functional ingredients.20
Industry estimate cited in 2020 for the number of ingredients in a single proprietary blend.21
Natural Scent Ingredients
Terpenes are plant-derived scent chemicals found in essential oils and “natural” fragrances—but natural does not always mean safe.
Some allergens occur naturally in spices, flowers, balsams, and lichen extracts. They can sensitize or irritate some people:12,7
Scent Ingredients
Most musk notes are now synthetic; natural deer musk is largely avoided for animal-welfare concerns.
| Musk Group | Examples | Why it Matters |
|---|---|---|
| Nitro Musks | musk ambrette musk tibetene musk moskene musk xylene musk ketone | California bans intentionally added musk ambrette, tibetene, moskene, and xylene in cosmetics beginning January 1, 2027. Musk ketone is subject to product-specific limits.18 |
| Polycyclic Musks | tonalide galaxolide | Aquatic-toxicity concerns. The EU limits tonalide and requires labeling for galaxolide. ECHA’s risk committee has recommended classifying galaxolide as a Category 1B reproductive toxicant — presumed to harm the unborn child; European Commission adoption is pending as of July 2026.6,27 |
| Macrocyclic Musks | habanolide ambrettolide exaltolide | A newer generation of synthetic musks, increasingly replacing older musks; independent health data remain limited. |
Functional Ingredients
Phthalates can act as fragrance solvents and stabilizers. DEP has historically served as a solvent and fixative; FDA says it appears to be the only phthalate still commonly used in cosmetics.28,29
Scent Ingredients
Restricted for allergen, reproductive-toxicity, or carcinogenic concerns.12,7
Functional Ingredients
Some fragranced products (e.g., laundry care) seal fragrance inside synthetic polymer microcapsules. The shell holds scent that releases over time through wear, moisture, rubbing, or friction.
Ingredient regulation is only part of the story. When a fragranced product is used indoors, these questions become relevant:
Indoor Chemistry
Some fragrance chemicals can react with indoor ozone and form new pollutants.
Cumulative Exposure
Fragrance from many products and people can accumulate in the same indoor air.
Right to Know
Ambient scenting devices can intentionally add fragrance or scent to shared air, making exposure hard to avoid.